What Does the “X” Rating Mean on Cowboy Hats?

If you’ve shopped for cowboy hats, you’ve probably noticed hats labeled with different “X” ratings — 3X, 6X, 10X, 100X, and beyond. At first glance, it seems simple: more Xs must mean a better hat. But the truth is a bit more complicated.

Here’s what the X rating really means — and what it doesn’t.

A Brief History of the X Rating

The X rating system dates back to the early 1900s and was originally used for felt cowboy hats. At that time, the X rating helped indicate the amount of beaver fur used in the felt.

Beaver fur has long been prized in hat making because it produces felt that is:

• Softer and smoother
• More durable
• More water-resistant
• Better at holding its shape

Historically, more Xs generally meant more beaver fur, and therefore a higher-quality hat.

Why X Ratings Are Confusing Today

Today, the X rating system is not standardized across the hat industry.

Each manufacturer uses the X rating as a relative scale within their own product line, not as a universal measure. That means:

• A 6X hat from one brand may not equal a 6X hat from another
• A higher X rating does not guarantee a higher percentage of beaver fur
• Some hats labeled with X ratings may contain little or no beaver at all

In short, X ratings are best used to compare hats within the same brand — not across different makers.

Felt Hats: Wool Felt vs Fur Felt

When shopping felt hats, it’s important to understand the material behind the X rating.

Wool Felt

• Made from sheep’s wool
• More affordable
• Softer and more breathable
• Best for casual or occasional wear

Fur Felt

• Made from animal fur such as rabbit or beaver
• Smoother texture
• More durable and water-resistant
• Holds its shape better over time
• Preferred for higher-end or all-weather hats

What About Straw Hats?

Straw hats also use X ratings, but they mean something entirely different.

For straw hats, the X rating refers to:

• The quality of the straw
• The fineness and tightness of the weave

A higher X straw hat typically has a tighter, more intricate weave, a smoother appearance, better durability, and increased resistance to unraveling.

Just like felt hats, straw X ratings are brand-specific — not universal.

The Bottom Line

• Use X ratings to compare hats within the same brand
• Don’t assume higher X always means better across brands
• Pay attention to materials, feel, and craftsmanship
• A quality felt hat should feel soft and smooth — not stiff or dry

When in doubt, the best test is still the simplest one: how the hat looks, feels, and wears.